Saturday, November 9, 2024

The Panama Canal Cruise - Part 5 - Huatulco



We enjoy another great sea day and once again the weather and the sea have been perfect. We spend the day reading and listening to the music groups that pop up around the ship in various forty-five minute programs. We invariably end back on our balcony with our feet propped up watching the countless sea birds dive for fish alongside the ship. We’ve been accompanied by several large pods of dolphins that really put on a show right next to the ship as well. The calm waters are interrupted by our bow wake and they can’t seem to resist using the wake as a springboard, leaping and twirling before splashing back into the sea.






We notice some of our regular passengers are conspicuous by their absence. Several couples we’ve seen many times during the early stages of the cruise haven’t been around the regular venues such as dinner or the theater as we start the second half of the cruise. We’re hearing sneezes and coughs more frequently throughout the ship. We wash our hands and use alcohol every time we go to eat, but we notice there are always a few who brusquely ignore the stewards standing by the doors politely reminding everyone to wash. 








Everyone handles the community ladles and spoons in the Grill and Bar, as opposed to the COVID protocols on the Celebrity Millennium where only the staff handled the food serving. There was no self-service there, which I didn’t mind at all. I don’t like the possibility of uncaring or unconscious passenger’s actions spoiling our long-awaited, rescheduled vacation. We hope that isn’t a foreboding of things to come. We begin to only use the elevators when we are alone, and avoid crowded venues, including the theater. We had our COVID shots and flu shots well in advance of the cruise, but there is no reason to be stupid about precautions.




The Sunrise on our ninth day is even more spectacular than the previous ones, which have all been beautiful. I have been asked many times why I love to cruise, but I rarely mention the fact that I love to watch the unobstructed sunrises and sunsets on the open ocean. A simplistic reason I suppose, but one that never fails to entertain, or even surprise me. This cruise has been one of the best for colorful sunrises, from the oddly purple sky of Panama, the astonishing red of Cartagena, and the oranges skies we now find off the coast of Mexico. The skies are perfectly clear, with only one morning of any cloud cover, and it faded away by the time the sun had risen just above the horizon. The sunrise as we slowly approach Huatulco is no different, the magnificent orange sky is worth an oil painting, but I doubt many people would believe the artist’s choice of colors.





As I roam around the top deck to find the best views, the captain turns the boat around within its own length so he docks the ship headed out to sea. We have not made any plans for a tour or excursion. We’ll again walk the town and see what we can see. It is a Saturday so, if we are in luck, the local market should be in full swing.











As I head back on a side galley, I notice a large seabird sitting on the green, artificial turf of the sports deck. I slowly approach the bird and it lifts its head to watch me. It is a juvenile Man of War, a Frigatebird, still in the grays and white plumage of a young adult. It turns its head to watch me, but makes no other moves. I make a note of where I am on the ship and head back inside where I meet a young steward with a clipboard doing some uninspiring, administrative duty. I tell him about the bird and he makes a call on his hand held radio. “It’s not uncommon on this leg of the cruise,” he said. “The young ones without the stamina of the adults pick us out at sea at night and land on the green grass areas to rest. Usually they are only exhausted. This is the fourth one this morning, so our environmental people have been busy.”

Frigatebirds can not float as their feathers, exactly like the Anhinga's of Florida, are not waterproof. Unlike Anhingas, Frigatebirds can not land in water: It's fly or land on dry earth. A passing ship is as good as any island to a tired youngster.





I have no doubt my tired world traveler will recover. I’ve only seen one other photographer on deck this morning and he was concentrating on the town and its unusual features of being tucked into a beautiful, hill-side harbor that has a man-made valley in the middle. He hasn’t seen the birds and only smiles at me complacently when I told him about the one I found. Language. I wonder what he thought I was talking about.






























The biggest difference we see here are the tour buses are over in a parking lot outside the dock area. There are two police cars parked nearby for image, I’m not even sure they were functional.









While we actually dock in Santa Cruz – the actual town of Huatulco is about twenty miles away, on the other side of the International airport – the port town is bustling. The city square is a beautiful lush, park, with banyans and other tropical trees giving shade to the many vendors and crowds. The streets are bustling with traffic as opposed to Puntarenas where we could have walked in the streets. The whole economic picture here is different. Buildings are well taken care of and the streets and yards are manicured, There is no trash. 

































We chat with people we meet in the park and surprisingly, none are from the ship. Several couples are Canadian who winter in condos that surround the harbor. Apparently, Huatulco is very popular with Canadians.

























































As we wander up the newly constructed street up the newly cut pass through the hillside on our way to nearby La Crucecita, we meet the worn-out Del and Cynthia, headed back to the ship. Again, we join forces and wind up back in the park enjoying drinks under a huge Banyan tree that stretches across the entire courtyard, taking relief from the warm afternoon sun.







































This is an area we want to check out later, perhaps a week or so here. It might be a nice place to escape the winter doldrums. While we are sitting and enjoying the atmosphere, I notice two older women sitting silently on the edge of the lawn doing whatever they were doing with large bags between them. I think they may have been basket weaving, but I think it was more for show than substance. 











I began watching them in earnest when I realized the were surreptitiously watching every single person in the park. They missed no one. Occasionally they would exchange glances, but one of them caught me looking at her and the staring match started. Soon, her friend caught on and I had them both staring at me, sitting there, working with their hands from at least forty feet away. I waved and raised my camera. The glares continued so I decided not to press my luck and I turned my attention elsewhere. I couldn’t help but wonder if they had two-way radios in those big, woven handbags.



































We were soon back on ship, again with a great dinner, but fewer guests than before. The weather was as good as anywhere on planet earth in January and we would have another great day at sea before we reached Puerto Vallarta, our last stop before Los Angeles.

Ándale! Vamos!







NEXT - Puerto Vallarta -

PREvious post: Puntarenas, Costa Ricahttps://piddlepaddler.blogspot.com/2024/11/the-panama-canal-cruise-part-4.html


















Wednesday, November 6, 2024

The Panama Canal Cruise - Part 4 - Puntarenas

 

















We’re still in sight of the coast of Panama on the evening of the transit of the Canal, but I have no idea about the distant coast that hazily greets us the next morning. Maybe it's still Panama, I may go look at the ship's locator if I remember to check. It is our fourth day of our cruise and we are relaxing just like they show in the brochures. A lazy breakfast in the dining room and an easy stroll through the ship to see if we have overlooked anything. We end up propping ourselves in deck chairs in the morning sunshine. Everyone is recovering from the canal experience and there isn’t a camera to be seen. Except mine, of course, but then I’m an addict.























If pleasant sea days are your thing, this cruise on "Mar Pacifico" is right up your alley. Ferdinand Magellan named this the peaceful sea back in 1540, and I’ll second it, but, then again this is only our second day out here and we haven’t been out of sight of land since leaving the Panama Canal. But I must be honest, I expected rougher seas than we’ve seen since sailing up the coast of central America. The other thing that surprises me is the floating trash. It seems we have been sailing through a real sea of garbage ever since we turned right just after leaving the Canal. Sea birds rest on trash that clumps together, and plastic is everywhere. This is only our seventh voyage, all in the Caribbean from Florida to Aruba, including the Leewards and Windwards except for Barbados, and we’ve never seen anything like the crap floating in the Pacific off the coast of Panama.

I’m fascinated by the boobies that seem to follow me wherever I cruise. Usually they are brown, but over here in the Pacific they are white. Well, white with black wing tips. I’m talking about the huge sea birds that seem to follow every cruise ship I’ve been on in this neck of the world in case your mind has wandered off somewhere. A fellow passenger tells me they are Nazca Boobies, and they are everywhere. They fly alongside the ship at eye level and occasionally look at me as if they are as curious about me as I am about them. They have a wing span of about five feet, but they don’t look that big until they get close to you. 































The fifth day and again, I'm up before daybreak, wandering around a very quiet ship. We are barely moving toward the hills of Costa Rica as the sun breaks over the horizon. The Pacific ocean is as calm as a big lake. 

We dock silently as the sun finally rises in the clear blue morning sky, and our silence is immediately interrupted by the parade of big tour buses coming out the pier in reverse. They are backing up all the way, single file, each with its loud warning beeper or horn blaring the entire length of the long, concrete pier. Time for breakfast











We walk through the ship on our way to the gang plank and are astonished at how empty the ship is. There seems to be no one onboard but us. Since there were only eight buses, now departed, I assume most people simply walked into town, but the pier is also mostly empty.




























































































The area is perhaps one of the prettiest we’ve seen. This was at one time only a small fishing pier but now is a dedicated cruise stop, not just a commercial dock pressed into unwanted service. A single pier extends from the small but modern welcome area, and the locals seem to be as welcome as we are, just not on the pier itself.














A woman is standing on the seawall, posing like a figurehead or a model. Dressed in a short red dress, she strikes various provocative poses while her partner snaps photos of her from all different angles. She is totally unperturbed by the cruise ship passengers who stare at her with puzzled looks.






We stop and study a large map of the small town. It appears to be located on a peninsula, and we decide to check out several items of interest. We stop in a local shop and I buy a new straw hat. The price tag is 10,000 CRC, Costa Rican Colones, and I wonder if they take US dollars. No problem, the well dressed young man, just returned from Miami, gladly accepts my twelve US dollars. We chat for ten minutes or so, especially after I tell him I grew up in Miami, and directs us to the closest store to pick  up suntan lotion.




































We wander around town, going to the bay on the other side before heading back toward the ship. What was once a pretty town is in a sad state of disrepair. The town has seen better times. It appears COVID may have hit the economy here hard as many once attractive storefronts are decaying and no one seems to care. The economic blight is everywhere, especially those buildings and businesses that once apparently catered to tourists. I’m sure there are many sights to be seen here as the location is one of the prettiest we’ve seen.






































































On our return to the pier, we again meet Del and Cynthia, carrying their ever present backpacks and water bottles, and decide to jointly check out an attraction just south of town that Del has found marked on a tourist brochure. Our sojourn is short lived as the building is not only abandoned, it is damaged and roofless. Time for a break before dinner so we slowly head back to the nearby ship.





































After another great meal in the dining room, we catch the show in the ship’s theater. It doesn’t take long for tired feet and tired muscles take over and we are soon back in the cabin, sound asleep.























Next: Huatulco  https://piddlepaddler.blogspot.com/2024/11/the-panama-canal-cruise-part-5-huatulco.html


A 15 Minute video of this blog is at: https://youtu.be/rjZy2_PNMNQ


Previous: The Panama Canal - https://piddlepaddler.blogspot.com/2024/11/the-panama-canal-cruise-part-3-transit.html